Saturday, September 10, 2005

Helmut Lang - A Fashion Forward Life

Helmut Lang’s innovative fashions have gained attention and praise for nearly twenty years, but the man behind the fashion empire lives in near obscurity. Before turning to fashion design, Lang went to a local academy and was trained to become a businessman in his native Vienna. His growing interest in European fashion led to the opening of his first studio in 1977. Throughout the mid-eighties, Lang became a celebrated designer with his first ready-to-wear collections in Switzerland.

In 1986, after the first success in Austria, he began showing women's clothes in Paris, followed by the 1987 venture: designing a men's collection. Lang oscillated between Vienna and Paris, designing in his atelier in Vienna and consulting with his agent in Paris. Ready-to-wear gave way to his couture line, popularizing his works throughout Europe even further. Gaining momentum and a devout following in the high-fashion world, the Helmut Lang name soon became synonymous with the avant guard, cutting edge design of the late nineteen eighties.

Today, Lang is considered one of the pace-makers of high fashion couture. Lang has been labeled a deconstructionist, a futurist, and a minimalist, always attributed with fashion trends that would be adopted by the fashion community. Lang’s first trademark creations used uncommon materials in cuts that were stark and clean with a near clinical coolness. His designs since have always remained casual with a certain air of harsh sterility. Prints are a rare find in Lang’s seasonal collections: his brand of minimalism creates a bizarre beauty in the cool, Brave New World look of mass production.

Lang’s sleek, urbane sensibility is especially present in his signature suits, bringing a certain androgyny to his collections: having little variation between his men’s and women’s pieces. Aside from his futurist take on the traditional suit, Lang gained wide popularity through his dresses. Lang’s dresses embody a certain sort of controlled chaos—slashed, asymmetrical or gathered yet still recognizably exclusive, high fashion couture. While tried-and-true Lang pieces have seen little change in fifteen years, the Helmut Lang label has experimented with more ornate feminine looks and accessories.

Lang’s fall/winter 2005 collection include a black, white, gray and metallic color scheme adorning signature jackets, skirts, suits and original dresses. Lang’s newly developed attention to fashion accessory detail will not disappoint this season. Fringe, horsehair, feathers, and metallic leather with an overlying S&M style cover handbags, earrings, pumps and belts while Lang’s fringed boots and hobo bags put a new spin on the fashion world’s most prevalent trend.

The Helmut Lang label has six stores worldwide throughout Europe and the United States, so while the namesake designer may be a rare find, his new couture fashions are always accessible to high fashion fans.

Brenna Cleeland - Freelance Fashion Editor
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